By mrgoodsound
Time for some cheap tube audio! I would like to share about some independent amplifier builders I have worked with in the past. Although 'cheap' is subjective, the builders I discuss here put out amplifiers that could be considered affordable by most!
I have little to no interest in commercial or mass manufactured tube electronics (this does not apply to vintage electronics). This is because even if you cannot DIY (my skills are limited) or have no interest in building electronics yourself, there are a number of talented craftsmen in the audio community who put out products that out perform anything from the brand names.
Working with an amplifier builder has its pros:
- Great deal of flexibility and customization, you may get a unit specifically tailored to your system, speakers or taste. This includes aesthetic and functional considerations too.
- Free from overhead manufacturing, marketing and distribution costs; the hobbyist or semi-pro builder may pass those savings onto the consumer when he or she buys direct.
- Potential for higher performance. Most brand names are re-hashing the same 3-4 circuits for a given power rating, with minor differences in parts quality. This assures a certain 'safe' performance and sales. The hobbyist or semi-pro has more freedom to explore designs and think outside of the box
And some cons:
- Limited opportunity to demo their wares beforehand. Usually a purchase decision must be made based on direct conversation and the recommendations of others, which is not an ideal position, especially for a big purchase.
- Limited resale value. You can only sell to someone who is familiar with the builder's work, and even then at a rather steep discount to what you paid, considering additional costs for customization the potential buyer may not care for
- Potential for lower performance. Freedom of design means that you may end up paying big bucks for someone else's prototype or design that seemed good on paper but did not sound well on execution.
- Potential to go 'overboard'. Given the opportunity to specify what they would like in their amplifier, it turns out that most audiophiles don't have a clue; and are usually too focused on the tubes and parts used, or making their dream amplifier that is not really the right fit for their system. The conversation usually goes something like this:
Prospective customer: "Hello, I saw on your website that you build custom amplifiers. I have always wanted to try a 45 amplifier. I listen to loud rock music with 92db/w efficient speakers. Please help!"
Amp builder: "Yes, I can build you an amplifier, but have you considered a simple 6L6 push-pull circuit for your speakers instead? A single-ended 45 amplifier may not satisfy your listening requirements. I can build a number of push-pull amps with good sounding iron from Hammond or One Electron. Check out my projects page and let me know what you think."
Inside the Sun 2A3 clone - so neat! |
Amp builder: *facepalm*
Oliver Sayes
Oliver Sayes aka sonic_oli is based in New York and is really talented! His main offering seems to be Yamamoto/Korneff 45 clones using old stock Tamradio output transformers. It's really amazing that in this day and age one can get such a high quality single-ended amplifier for under $1000 USD from a talented builder. I always see his 'plain jane' amps sell in under a week when listed, though I know he is open to custom orders and I have seen some crazy two-chassis creations from him.
I owned a simple Sun Audio 2A3 clone he did with bargain basement parts - Hammond OPTs, Russian PIO caps and an ALPs pot. Nothing fancy, but it sounded sweet! I would like to try one of his amps based on the 45, 46 or 42 tubes sometime.
Radu Tarta
Radu is based in Connecticut can be found on his blog simplepleasuretubeamps. I would consider him a 'modern' amp builder - he uses very fine modern OPTs, DC heating, filament regulation and overbuilt external power supplies for his amps. As a result his creations are a little more elaborate and definitely not 'cheap', but seriously beautiful.
Radu Tarta 4P1L line stage |
Lance Cochrane
The next builder I would like to highlight is Lance Cochrane from California. Lance has been building 'scratch amps' for several years and selling his one-off creations on Audiogon. He no longer takes custom/individual orders but if you are lucky you may find one of his amplifiers floating around for sale. They usually go quickly.
I like the scrappy style of Lance's creations. He reuses the chassis' and transformers from old console, organ and jukebox amplifiers; cleans out the inside and puts in a variation of his favorite circuit he has been working with for years. I have seen his amps feature 6L6, 6V6, 6550, 6BQ5, 6AQ5 and more, typically in a push-pull configuration for somewhere between 10-30 watts.
I currently own an amp of his called the 'Leviathan' which I think is rebuilt on a Conn organ amplifier chassis. It is 6550-based and features a whopping 11 tubes, 3 of which are rectifiers! When I was young and naive, as opposed to now where I am just young, I was anti push-pull for no rational reason. Yes, in general, they sound a little more restrained and a little less free than their single-ended counterparts, but I do not feel this way about Lance's amp. It is capable of sounding psychedelic and graceful, despite having enough current on tap to drive just about any conventional loudspeaker. The best part is that Lance builds for trouble-free operation, automatic bias on everything, no adjustments to make, output tubes run softly.
Finally, I will share an excerpt of an email from Lance where he describes the signature of his amps:
"What makes the power number? The higher the plate voltage, the higher the power. KT88/6550 for instance will be run at 600v on the plates commonly while 6V6 can't take over say 325. That's a starting point. How much the output tubes take and what you give them are separate things.
I tend to not give output tubes anywhere near their maximum ratings. The harder you run them, the harder the sound and the sooner that they wear out. All in the pursuit of more watts.
Looking a little deeper, the voltage difference between the plates and screens determines the class the unit runs in. If you have a big difference in voltage there, like Audio Research tends to do, you get more power. As always, more power comes at a cost.
I like to run the plates and screens with some difference, say 50 volts, but not a lot. That cuts effective power but adds depth. Having the plates and screens at the same voltage would give Class A operation. I've always found that on the bland side.
Mode of operation gives an amp a signature. Voltage on the first tube in the chain gives an amp a signature. Triode versus tetrode versus ultralinear gives an amp a signature. Biasing level gives an amp a signature.
My amps are all tetrode, all run at a soft level of plate voltage, all run at a discrete level of voltage on the first tube in the chain, and all are biased at roughly the same level on the tube curve.
They also are all cathode biased, have low global feedback, and have the same phase inverter.
There are a number of reasons my amps all sound more alike than different. It's all in optimizing the various factors of each unit so that everything falls into the same picture."
Lance Cochrane 6550 'Leviathan' |
and my conclusion : A-never do that B-life is too short to spend time on it ... If the engineer is a genius - his products will cost extremely expensive (more expensive than factory ones), if not - this is a guarantee that he has little knowledge/experience and is not hired by a decent firm... most likely, he will be forced to save on components and buy dubious copies , he does not have good equipment ... disappointed - you won't sell it ... Let me guess - the bike you ride was invented and made by a guy from the next garage ? ))) or will you buy a car in Harlem that you made at a tire repair station (Mercedes is expensive and probably it will be worse than the author's work) ?.. Amplifiers are primitive devices, they have been made for 100 years (no new solutions have been invented) - just listen to a few in your system and leave the one that fits ... In audio - there are no strict standards (the same device can give a different effect in different systems and rooms) - all manufacturers are parasitic on this (do not forget to scold competitors - otherwise you will not sell) ... It is desirable that the solution was comprehensive (most of the work on the coordination of components and settings for you was done by an experienced manufacturer) - your task is to fine-tune in a always unique room ... and if you listen to modern music and rock - there is such a thing as an equalizer and measurement of the sound field in the listening zone - only this way and not otherwise you can (long dancing with a tambourine) set everything up ... and treat the situation by replacing components-you can up to the gray pubis)))... If the text is crooked - it's not I'm a fool , but GOOGLE ))) - he does not know how to translate ...
ReplyDelete"If the engineer is a genius - his products will cost extremely expensive (more expensive than factory ones), if not - this is a guarantee that he has little knowledge/experience and is not hired by a decent firm"
Deletecompletely incorrect!
"Let me guess - the bike you ride was invented and made by a guy from the next garage ? ))) or will you buy a car in Harlem that you made at a tire repair station (Mercedes is expensive and probably it will be worse than the author's work) ?"
a very poor analogy!
"Amplifiers are primitive devices, they have been made for 100 years (no new solutions have been invented)"
so you would think - but most commercial endeavors sound mediocre at best?
For some reason, half of my letter isn't there ... I won't write it again ... Within its price group-most amplifiers sound the same plus/minus (if it is industrial production) ... There is no point in wasting your life on endless searches , enough "classic" samples have already been created - try a few at home and leave one . Much depends on what kind of music you will listen to - if loud entertainment (fast food) - your way is the equalizer (at least 32 bands per channel) + a specialist with expensive microphone equipment who measures the sound field in the listening area and will configure everything ... if serious adult music - it is not included so that the walls in the house shake - there is a different approach ))) There ARE no universal systems . You can't have Bruichladdich X4 Quadrupled Whiskey and dry red wine in the same bottle at the same time ...
DeleteI'm in this hobby more than you live in the world ))) "I assure you, you will come to the same conclusions as you get older .
Let's just say our cocky Russian friend always think "out of the box"! :-)
DeleteHello, a surprise post highlighting some of your own equipment and journey. Just a couple of comments:
ReplyDelete-From MY perspective, I hope one day you will change your insistence for a remote volume control! :-) I am talking about motorized ones that are so clumsy. Something relay-controlled, like my Schiit Saga, makes more sense. Even then, I don't use it. I guess I am just old school. But MY way in my reference system has always been: have all my controls in front of me. I'd have a low rack in front of my listening chair. In HK I had the Solidsteel 2x2 rack which can essentially house 6 components, turntable and CD on top and other things below. You then have the option to run a long interconnect to the amp, or long speaker cables to the loudspeakers. My current systems is built this way. In the front wall you can have your second, less used, system. People get uptight with long cables, but I find little detriment (I mostly use Gotham, in 15 ft and 20 ft lengths!), if any. Of course, it's better to DIY cables, because it can be expensive. Your The Truth, being buffered, will have no problem with long interconnects certainly. Judging by the way you are going, you are going to have a lot of equipment, and eventually will set up something like 2-3 stations (like me) so it's time to think about longer cables.
-I completely agree with what Lance said about the voltages. I detest designers who like to run their tubes at high dissipation. A good example is Conrad Johnson, whose amps I find uninspiring and they don't even sound as powerful as the rated power, not at all. And they are prone to failures.
Some experience regarding commissioning. I think it is not for the relatively green, and susceptible, audiophile. You have to be at a certain point along to be able to judge word of mouth. Too many mouths, too many words, too little real experience. That said, if one REALLY knows what one wants, it can be a good thing. Even then, even experienced people can get disappointments. One example is my friend Andy, a golden ear. After reading a lot, being a vinyl addict with tens of turntables, he got intrigued by LCR phono and got a rather extravagant "well-reputed" 2-chassis tube unit from some guy. We have listened to it quite often. I never heard anything special, and asked him. He said for him too.
DeleteTalking about 45 amps. My Yamamoto is defunct and I miss my unit in HK. A DIY friend build it for me but I supplied the circuit, from somewhere. It is ultra simple, a WE 417A tube driving the 45. The last of the Tango output trannies (Hashimoto now should be similar), but the power trans is from China. It sounds SO good!
Another supplier that one can think about is Hong Kong's YS Audio. Their products are well built, use Hashimoto trannies and are very reasonably priced. e.g., their YSA-2A3 amp for USD 2232 is very reasonable:
http://www.ys-audio.com/ys-audio_eng.htm
I have heard their amps many times. They sound good, quite neutral, and are very reliable. If I get one I may modify a little by input wires and coupling caps. They also do custom.
Near the end of YS Audio's Product Page there is a link to their Custom Products over the years. Many high quality photos and a bewildering array of output tubes.
DeleteIt's been a while since I last contacted you. A few questions for the Truth and hope you can help. Sent a comment on your blog but somehow lost in transition...
ReplyDelete1) Do I need gain with SUT for Sparkler CDP S503?
2) Is it better than a TVC/AVC? I'm also looking at the Smart icOn4 but The Truth is also a good fit perhaps. Currently, I'm using my Gaincard driving the Dyna Crafft Switched frm using Two PSU to only one whiich is better.
best regards and stay healthy until COVID!
(note: Reader Eric had trouble sending a comment (reader Peter too!). I manually posted his questions)
DeleteI am not sure why you didn't succeed in leaving a message. Can you do me a favor and just try again, just type testing? I want to see what happens. Thx.
I am not entirely sure what you are asking. The Gaincard has a volume control but only 1 input. I guess you need more than 1 input, is that right? And given that the Dynaudio is not that efficient, are you looking for more oomph? If so, Unity Gain may disappoint (though with buffering likely will sound better anyway).
Why a SUT for the CDP? Not necessary unless you want to buffer the CDP's output. I'd not.
I have never heard the Truth, and don't know how it compares with TVC/AVC, so I'll let mrgoodsound weigh in. For all I know he may have experience with TVC etc. He always surprises me for the breath of his ventures :-)
The icON4 certainly looks good, but anything with the Slagle autoformers in it is quite expensive! My sole experience with autoformers is here:
https://cheaptubeaudio.blogspot.com/2017/10/letter-from-taipei-robins-new-toys-home.html
I have only heard Richard's DIY Bent (Slagle) and it seems OK. So I am not averse to the technology (just the expense). My Taipei friend is a real music lover and I trust his opinions and my previous experience with his Townsend Seismic Podium was positive:
https://cheaptubeaudio.blogspot.com/2016/08/robin-taipei-un-tweaking-townsend.html
So I think the Townsend is likely good. The Allegri now is in its second iteration:
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0918/Townshend_Allegri_Plus_Preamplifier_Review.htm
Of course, even more expensive!!!! Makes your icON4 seems like a bargain (which it is not).
It is interesting you mentioned the Gaincard sounds better with just one power supply. Dick Olsher, a usually reliable reviewer, thought so too in his original enjoythemusic review. The amp made it into the site's 20/20 award.
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/20_20_Awards/Enjoy_The_Music_20_20_Award_Amplification2.htm
Hi Eric,
Delete1) Your Sparkler has a typical line level output voltage of 2.0Vrms. However its output stage is also its I/V conversion from what I can tell, a simple BJT buffer, not opamps. You will have to consider your speakers and the input sensitivity of your power amplifier as well as its overall voltage gain. You can do a simple test called the Bolero test where you get a performance of Ravel's Bolero on CD and connect the Sparkler directly to your amplifier (i.e. no attenuation). We choose this composition because it starts off very quiet and builds gradually to crescendo. Any decent recording of it will have good dynamic range. You can play with the direct connection, listen for a few minutes, and determine if volume and dynamics are satisfactory when the passage gets loud. If volume is not satisfactory, you will need additional gain between your CDP and amplifier. If dynamics are not satisfactory, you will need an active line stage. The recording builds so gradually you have ample time to shut it off if it is too loud.
2) In my opinion for a separate line stage the compromises of an active buffer are preferable to the compromises of a passive attenuator. In the simplest system configuration I would not have a separate line stage but instead balance the gain structure of the system between source and amplifier and build in an attenuator of the highest quality (vintage or autoformer) in the power amp. You should do your best to try for yourself though and decide. The Truth can be returned in 30 days if you are not happy with it.
Hope this helps
nice
ReplyDelete