The Truth as it sits in my system today |
By mrgoodsound
I would like to write about a pre-amp (specifically a line stage) that has been part of my system since late 2018, and will continue as a mainstay for the foreseeable future.
Background
The 'Truth' line stage is built by Ed Schilling of thehornshoppe. I am inspired to write an article about it as it is certainly a unique component which defies the mainstream, and some internet discussions about this unit have some misinformed opinions. I first learned of the 'Truth' from Arthur Salvatore's original essay on it in 2016. At the time, it unseated his reference active Coincident Statement Line Stage and passive EMIA autoformer volume control, and his writing on it made me extremely curious - though I wouldn't be able to act on that curiosity until years later. I will note that while I do not agree with everything Arthur Salvatore has ever published, I admire his application of deductive reasoning and rational thinking towards audio. His original essay on the 'Truth' contains the most coherent explanation of the active vs. passive line stage argument I have ever read.I will try to keep the technical explanation simple. The Truth is a unity gain (0dB) solid-state buffer which uses light-dependent resistors (also referred to as a photoresistor or photocell) to attenuate the input signal and provide balance control. Basically a LDR is a resistor which has variable resistance based on the intensity of light reflected on its surface. The Truth contains two potentiometers, however the signal does not pass through the contacts of either. Instead, these are used to adjust the intensity of a light source (an LED) being reflected onto the photocells, to control the level of attenuation or balance.
The Truth is not the only device on the market which uses LDRs in this manner, there are the more commonly known Tortuga LDR and Lightspeed Attenuator. However, it is critical to point out both of these devices are passive - they have no input or output buffering - and in my opinion markedly inferior to The Truth for this very reason.
The Truth also contains a simple transistor-based input and output buffer; and two regulated switch-mode power supplies, one per channel. My unit has the optional remote control, which adds another IR sensor board and motorizes the potentiometer. A picture of the internals of The Truth are below, borrowed from Roger McCuaig of TNT Audio with my labeling in red. I did not take a photo inside my own unit as it is actually rather difficult to open. Roger did provide the only other decent review of The Truth I have seen apart from Arthur Salvatore's, so check that out here. As an aside, I am a fan of TNT Audio's publications with their independent writing team and exploration of less mainstream components.
My Experience
Throughout the period of time I have owned The Truth, I have been able to use it in a wide variety of system configurations with a variety of power amplifiers and speakers. I have also loaned it to several local audiophiles, just to get their opinion. Only in one case was The Truth not a good match - the system's owner had a CD player with 2.0V RMS output, 90dB/w Yamaha NS-1000s, and an Audio Research VT200 power amplifier with an input sensitivity of 2.5V RMS for full rated output. There was not enough gain, though replacing his existing active pre-amp with The Truth yielded much better sound, even without the ability to crank it up. In every other case, The Truth immediately and undeniably outperformed every pre-amp or line stage it replaced. It simply has the least electronic character of any component I have owned and in many cases cannot be distinguished from a direct connection to the source! Sometimes, it even sounds better than a direct connection, as its buffering capability resolves impedance mismatch or input stage drive issues.Internals of The Truth line stage |
In some ways, it is the perfect separate box line stage, though it is not a perfect component. It is not a component for the faint of heart. There are no on/off, mute or mono switches. Though I am personally a fan of scrappy looking gear, it is a rather cheap looking black box that barely weighs 1 lbs. Due to the nature of the balance control, the balance drifts once the unit is turned off and on, and the center position on the balance knob is not the center between the two channels, so balance must be set by ear. Due to the nature of the volume control, there is a very large portion of the volume pot which is useless and a small portion which is critical, though this will depend on the efficiency of your speakers and the gain structure of your system. I have 100dB+ efficient speakers and can hear mechanical noise from the motorized potentiometer when adjusting volume. The remote volume control is extremely finicky, the remote must be pointed directly at the unit for it to register any input, and the + and - buttons on the remote must be gently tapped, or you will get major adjustments.
I live with all these quirks because of what The Truth offers. Describing its sound is rather pointless as it has little electronic character of its own. It is easier to describe what is often observed when replacing an existing pre-amp or line stage with it.
When replacing an active line stage with The Truth, you will lose the coloration of that specific component (this can be a good or bad thing), but you will almost certainly gain sharper transients and leading edge; greater intelligibility; vividness; spatial impression; emotional mobility and a sense of appropriateness with regards to the distribution of sound, as it relates to intonation, rhythm, dynamics, etc.
When replacing a passive line stage with The Truth, the above still applies varying with the quality and application of the passive line stage - but even more emphasis on vitality, dynamics, energy, life!
Fascinating. Of course if we break it down it may not be as revolutionary. First, a buffering unity gain preamp. Then, a photo-potentiometer, which is certainly not a first. Around 30 years ago, MELOS produced their iconic MA-333 preamp which utilized photosensors. It was a 3-chassis preamp, the preamp, the PSU and a Phono section. It sounded very good. I still have the 2-chassis 222 preamp, which is conventional and an excellent product.
ReplyDeleteNo matter the efficiency of the system, as an analog die-hard and first-watt believer I'd have my doubt, despite Salvatore's believes. BUT the Truth is certainly fascinating, and very reasonably priced. I almost wanted to buy one and try out!
Definitely not revolutionary! It is a very simple design that rejects conventional approaches however. I think some people see the name of The Truth and read Salvatore's review and imagine a lot of pomp and circumstance. Nothing could be further from reality - Ed Schilling is very humble and the naming is just tongue in cheek.
DeleteI would be happy to send you mine for loaner after the current situation is over.
Interesting, I would have thought that the two switch mode PSU would leave some sonic impact but the proof is in the listening! You can also look up the Pass B1 buffer, which is along these lines.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment. If you asked me 1-2 years ago, I would have thought so too. But I have learned to drop all such preconceived notions and dogma.
DeleteThe Pass B1 is also interesting, and likely my preference over any separate box passive solution, but the signal still runs through a pot. Depends on who you ask, some people think carbon pots are music killers! I think there is much more harm to be done than an innocent ALPS pot.
Eric May 13, 2020
ReplyDeleteIt's been a while since I last contacted you. A few questions for the Truth and hope you can help. Sent a comment on your blog but somehow lost in transition...
1) Do I need gain with SUT for Sparkler CDP S503?
2) Is it better than a TVC/AVC? I'm also looking at the Smart icOn4 but The Truth is also a good fit perhaps. Currently, I'm using my Gaincard driving the Dyna Crafft Switched frm using Two PSU to only one whiich is better.
This comment has been removed by the author.
Delete(note: Reader Eric had trouble sending a comment (reader Peter too!). I manually posted his questions)
DeleteI am not sure why you didn't succeed in leaving a message. Can you do me a favor and just try again, just type testing? I want to see what happens. Thx.
I am not entirely sure what you are asking. The Gaincard has a volume control but only 1 input. I guess you need more than 1 input, is that right? And given that the Dynaudio is not that efficient, are you looking for more oomph? If so, Unity Gain may disappoint (though with buffering likely will sound better anyway).
Why a SUT for the CDP? Not necessary unless you want to buffer the CDP's output. I'd not.
I have never heard the Truth, and don't know how it compares with TVC/AVC, so I'll let mrgoodsound weigh in. For all I know he may have experience with TVC etc. He always surprises me for the breath of his ventures :-)
The icON4 certainly looks good, but anything with the Slagle autoformers in it is quite expensive! My sole experience with autoformers is here:
https://cheaptubeaudio.blogspot.com/2017/10/letter-from-taipei-robins-new-toys-home.html
I have only heard Richard's DIY Bent (Slagle) and it seems OK. So I am not averse to the technology (just the expense). My Taipei friend is a real music lover and I trust his opinions and my previous experience with his Townsend Seismic Podium was positive:
https://cheaptubeaudio.blogspot.com/2016/08/robin-taipei-un-tweaking-townsend.html
So I think the Townsend is likely good. The Allegri now is in its second iteration:
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0918/Townshend_Allegri_Plus_Preamplifier_Review.htm
Of course, even more expensive!!!! Makes your icON4 seems like a bargain (which it is not).
It is interesting you mentioned the Gaincard sounds better with just one power supply. Dick Olsher, a usually reliable reviewer, thought so too in his original enjoythemusic review. The amp made it into the site's 20/20 award.
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/20_20_Awards/Enjoy_The_Music_20_20_Award_Amplification2.htm
Hi Eric,
ReplyDelete1) Your Sparkler has a typical line level output voltage of 2.0Vrms. However its output stage is also its I/V conversion from what I can tell, a simple BJT buffer, not opamps. You will have to consider your speakers and the input sensitivity of your power amplifier as well as its overall voltage gain. You can do a simple test called the Bolero test where you get a performance of Ravel's Bolero on CD and connect the Sparkler directly to your amplifier (i.e. no attenuation). We choose this composition because it starts off very quiet and builds gradually to crescendo. Any decent recording of it will have good dynamic range. You can play with the direct connection, listen for a few minutes, and determine if volume and dynamics are satisfactory when the passage gets loud. If volume is not satisfactory, you will need additional gain between your CDP and amplifier. If dynamics are not satisfactory, you will need an active line stage. The recording builds so gradually you have ample time to shut it off if it is too loud.
2) In my opinion for a separate line stage the compromises of an active buffer are preferable to the compromises of a passive attenuator. In the simplest system configuration I would not have a separate line stage but instead balance the gain structure of the system between source and amplifier and build in an attenuator of the highest quality (vintage or autoformer) in the power amp. You should do your best to try for yourself though and decide. The Truth can be returned in 30 days if you are not happy with it.
Hope this helps
it's highly likely that my laptop is too old and has compatibility issues to post comments properly so don't worry. Here's my response and I had copied it just in case and it pays off.
DeleteThanks both John and Mrgoodsound for your prompt replies. I switched from S303 to S503 I mode pairing with its amp. But recently decided to go back to 47 Gaincard and is in the process of switching the CDP from I to V mode. Before, direct hook up to CDP from GC is a perfect match . However, recently , while waiting for the current switch, I bought a cheapo $10usd Bluetooth device from Taobao and hook up my AirMac to my GC and was immensely satisfied with the sound quality playing Tiny Desk Concerts from Youtube. Therefore I would need an input selector to be able to play both CD and BT which would not deteriorate the sound . I thought TVC/AVC was a great choice as I heard a lot of good marriage using Bespoke and Music First but they are way above my budget. I recently nailed down to the icOn4 with a reasonable price tag . But COVID has halted me on the purchase. Tbh, I did not search internet much until lately and found your recent article on The Truth which arouse my interest on which is better, The Truth or AVC
iCon4 uses AVC which takes away the ringing in high frequencies , but it's really difficult to audition The Truth in HK so it's hard to compare. Anyway, I don't mind waiting ~~ perhaps I will get a iCon4 first and keep The Truth in mind for future potential upgrade. Afterall 2V from Sparkler is sufficient I guess for any AVC/TVC
GC is an amazing amp which can drive my Dyna Crafft even with one PSU with ease (my second unit is gathering dust now), musicality and PRAT while sacrificing a little bit of control (or shall I say duo PSU is a bit too polite?) and delineation in details and is a perfect match with my S303 (yet to try on S503 since mine was I mode which I 'll report back later)
Wow, Gaincard to be included in the 20/20 award among the rest of the winners which cost many times more is truly amazing. Everyone who come to my place (only a few anyway..) were amazed how well my Gaincard can tame the Crafft which is notorious demanding in amp pairing , hence I bought 2 PSUs on the assumption that it must be the only right way ....until after so many years to find out one is preferred to two PSUs!!!!
Eric, what a coincidence! I have been streaming with BT devices recently and has a HUGE article coming up. Yes, BT can be very musical! :-)
Deletehi Eric,
Deleteit sounds like you don't necessarily need the separate volume control. have you considered the S506 'switchgirl' from sparkler? judging by what is inside it can't be that expensive. keep the interconnect from it to the amp short and it should be a good solution.
well, the icon4 is 1500gbp. that is tough for me to swallow, the autoformers are $400 US from intactaudio. you are paying quite the premium for the remote control functionality
Yes , BT is almost free with my $10 cheapo BT device hooking up to free You Tube (yes, there are the annoying ads) and the sound coming out is extremely dynamic and musical perhaps not as "HiFi" as many audiophiles are looking for , would be interested in your view on this!
ReplyDeleteI'm posting it on my work station, so it should work!
Works fine Eric! My feeling about BT is the same as you. Article shall come out soon.
DeleteDear Mr. John, I have a chance to pick up a Truth pre, but without able to audition first.
ReplyDeleteI have mainly one concern, which is with respect to the gain.
I use three sources: a tape deck which outputs around 0.6 volts, a Philips CD player which outputs 2 volts and a DAC for play back of digital files which also outputs 2 volts.
I am at present using an active preamplifier. Will the Truth be able to drive these inputs or should I expect a loss in dynamics
Please see my comment on May 14 regarding the Bolero test, it will answer your question for certain.
Deletemrgoodsound was the author and the one to talk to. I'd be happy if you report back. The Tape deck might benefit from a head amp anyway.
Delete