Canare L-2B2AT Belden 8451 1309A Rean Unitek

Click pics to enlarge. The Preamp that necessitated me to write this article first. Belden 8451 in and out. Behind is the 6J4/6P3P Preamp.

Taobao Talk: Cheap Cables

Letter from Shenzhen (23-2): Wired!

Amendment 2/20/23: In haste of editing, I left out some important sentences in my writing on Sommer. Duly corrected. The new sentences are in italics.

I actually wanted to write about the very cheap Preamp pictured above. But the thing is, the story of this Preamp has an interesting twist behind it that involved cables. So, to prep for that, I’m “forced” to write about the cables first. So be it, it’s time anyway.

The story about my cables here in China is pretty much similar to tubes. When I first bought the Aiyima T9, I had barely enough cables to connect things, just making do. It was after I revamped my main listening room (the study, chronicled here) and acquired the Beydas LS3/5A that by necessity I started to buy things, including cables. There may be minor overlap with my previous diary-like articles chronicling my journey here, so bear with me.

My reasoning for choosing the cables I did was similar to what I did for tubes (explained here). Here in China, I don’t have my go-to cables, none! All I have are leftovers (described in my Aiyima T9 article). No Gotham (GAC-2,4, DGS, 2111, 50025,40, etc); no Belden (9497, 1810A); not even Mogami (2534, 49). I’d not like to buy them again. And whatever has to be cheap. And are they cheap and good!

Note that TB prices vary a bit, and some of the prices I got might have been a bit lower than now as I did order quite a few things during 11.11 and 12.12. The difference most of the time though is not significant.

https://m.tb.cn/h.Un3PHPh?tk=sJlLdSfydjW

Canare L-2B2AT This was the first one I got. At the ridiculously low price of RMB 3.70 per meter, I got 15 m, and wired my whole system basically with it. This is a slender, soft and very well-made cable. I had the slightly more expensive 2T2S before (here) and the 2B2AT surprisingly has more resolution. In fact, I was very satisfied. Good and clean transients, very even tonal balance and good rhythm. I previously also had another pair of Canare cables, the ones that came with my Softone CDP, a coaxial cable that sounds close to the 2T2S, both on the warm side. The L-2B2AT is to be preferred.

Recently, I opened up the BRZ FU-50 amp, and was delighted to find that it uses the L-2B2AT as signal cable! Cheap, but good! I shall one day re-wire my 6J4/6P3P preamp (here) and perhaps I shall use this cable.

https://m.tb.cn/h.UNLIl0k?tk=Q9HjdhIUGih

Belden 8451 I was happy with the Canare but, one day, as I was surfing TB, I accidentally came across my old friend Belden 8451. And man, this one I know well! Although I really haven't written about it, in NYC I have used it as interconnect as well as signal and hook up cables in various projects (serach 8451 in the blog if u like). I know its sound shall be a little more textured than the Canare I’ve been using and shall benefit the FU-50 amp (whose sound is a little leaner than the APPLause 300B). At the even lower price of RMB 2.80 per m, I ordered 17 m. In fact, if I had encountered it before, this would have been my first buy. Too bad I didn’t think of looking for it. In fact, this is an obscure Belden that I’m surprised to have found on TB. One bad thing about TB algorithm is that the bigger and more trafficked stores and items show up much more often than smaller ones (browsing gets boring after a while); perhaps there is a TB fee for giving stuff prominence too. So, sometimes it’s a matter of luck. The inner construction of the Canare L-2B2AT and Belden 8451 are very similar, but the skin of the Belden is quite a bit stiffer and more unwieldly (as per usual). This is genuine Belden.

For the 2 above cables, I’d recommend you first try out a little of both and compare before buying larger quantities.

A Surprise and Dark Horse Those 2 are what I mainly use for interconnects. I thought everything was well, but audiophiles always get surprised, right? Well, as ELO repeatedly waxed lyrics about his “Studer” cable (latest here), a reader astutely commented that it looks like the Sommer SC Classique. We all dived in and did some detective work. I looked at the SC Classique: it is a 1 conductor coaxial cable and cannot possibly be used as XLR (the "Studer" comes in both XLR and RCA versions). I asked ELO to take a pic of the connector with shell removed. I then identified it as most likely SC Club Mk II. Now, this is a 2-conductor cable and comes in both naked and tweed-clothed versions, the latter similar in looks to the SC Classique. My friend Seng and I looked at the spec’s and found the 2 versions to be identical though the naked version is substantially cheaper, and I managed to source it here. It proves very good. Sorry, this is a bit of a teaser, but full report shall come later from ELO and his friends (I'll chip in).

https://m.tb.cn/h.Un3lc94?tk=QM76dSfzSTY

Belden 1309A This is the curiosity. There are variations. I actually got 5m of the thicker 2.5mm x2 version before I even got the Canare loudspeaker cables I recommended previously (here). During 11.11, when I got the bargain Weiliang LPS (here), I noticed they also have the 1.5mm x2 version, and I got another 5m for RMB 9.80 per m. This was to enable me to bi-wire the Beydas LS3/5A.

The Canare’s (2 or 4 conductors) are faster but have less depth and flesh than the Belden. The Canare’s fare better with my floorstanding Sansui. But with the Beydas, I prefer the Belden for its organic sound. Bass goes deeper and is more tactile. This does come at a cost, as the Belden is a little darker sounding. In fact, aurally it reminds me of my go-to bi-wire cable, the Belden 1810A. They even look and handle similar.

But! Big Issue! If you look at official info of the Belden 1309A, it doesn’t look remotely like this cable. Plus, there is only one official 1309A, but here there are 3 versions of this “1309A” (professional cable companies won't catalogue as such). Beside the two I mentioned, there’s even a 4-conductor one! It is known that there are counterfeit Belden cables around, so like ELO’s mis-appropriated “Studer”, this one is better designated as “Belden” and “1309A”. But, if you ask me, it sure sounds and feels like Belden (especially the darker 1810A), and I do recommend it for people whose systems are too bright.

https://m.tb.cn/h.UMIgntb?tk=8m95dSfShNW
Rean RCA Connectors For RCA connectors, there is no greater bargain than Neutrix subsidiary Rean, which I have long used. There are high quality gold-plated ones as well as non-gold-plated ones. Both are very good, but personally I’ve always tended towards non-gold ones (nickel-plated would be even better). At RMB 2.55 per connector, I bought dozens.

https://m.tb.cn/h.UnWCHh2?tk=WER1dSf8kBU

Unitek USB Cable Since we are on cables. For the longest time, I have used Unitek (read this article where it went against another supposedly budget champ, Belkin). For the longest time I used my 1m USB B to Mini with my Meridian Explorer. And then when Aiyima T9’s stock USB cable, which looks good, proved unsatisfactory, I resorted to the Unitek again, with adaptors (here). Then I got some B to A from the official TB store in Shanghai. The only problem is that the shortest length (reason is people buy them as Printer Cables, which are usually longer, even very long - the hifi use is just incidental) I could find at a good price is 1.5m (I’d prefer shorter 1m), for a measly RMB 5.80. It proves very close in performance to my go-to 1m + adaptors. Some of my other devices, like my 1-bit TDA1305 DAC, came with USB cables. I always tried them out, but none can get close to the Unitek. Highly recommended!

Aside from the Sommer, there are others coming up. Reader Attila recommended the Belden 8428 and I procured some. I was shocked how unwieldly its construction is (the cotton strands are positively nuisance), and so I haven’t terminated it. Next time...

Mid Trajectory 6J4/6P3P Preamp Beydas LS3/5A Clone Canare Belden BRZ FU50

Click pics to enlarge. 11 ohm Beydas LS3/5A on stands; 15 ohm in foreground. On "Finite Element" rack, from top, Aosibao 6P1 PSE,; BRZ FU-50 and APPLause 300B. Not the Rubber Shock-Absorbing Pads on the sides of the Aosibao and BRZ, in lieu of their own feet.

Letter from Shenzhen (22-16): Mid-Trajectory, In and Out of Audio Hell

Some months ago, my long-starved audio cravings were resurfaced, and I embarked on a New Trajectory (detailed here). Months went by, a few more amps and pairs of loudspeakers down the road (not to mention some more tubes and cables), before I asked myself whether it has been worth it. The answer is an emphatic yes, but some time ago there was a period of audio hell that I’d have preferred not to have gone through.

After the last report, I acquired a decent regulated SMPS (USD 33) and a Tube-Rectified Preamp (6Z5/6X5, 2x 6J4/EF84/6AU6 and 2x 6P3P/6V6; USD 94) and then for quite a while I didn’t buy anything, although I kept browsing Taobao. Damn it, it’s like Ebay (or Amazon), addicting for sure, but useful too (I even bought otherwise locally unavailable bagels - too soft and not very good).

But came 11.11 (one of China’s Black Friday equivalents) I lost my “iron” control, as one thing begot another. The triggering product was Beydas Audio’s “Stirling” LS3/5A clone (USD 350; I wrote the review in Chinese because it is not sold to the west; don’t waste your time as I got to know the seller whose carrier just won’t ship loudspeakers to the west for regulatory reasons). I randomly bought the so-called 15 ohm version and it completely trounced the Anubis. Its performance made me decide to get a pair of 24” stands (USD 41) for occasional use in my Study, where the main systems reside. It has proved satisfying enough to stay. And so I upgraded to 28” stands (USD 46) to have the tweeters more level with my ears near-field. Yes, the taller stands sound better overall and the lower one is now perfect too in the listening room, where the sofa is lower and far away.

As mentioned in the link, I also bought the bi-wre Canare 4S10F loudspeaker cable (USD 2:50 per meter), which performed so well with my Sansui floorstanders that I subsequently also bought the single wire 2S9F+ (USD 1.40 per meter), which I also initially liked. Thinking of doing bi-wire experiments (on both my Sansui and “Stirling”) I also bought smaller gauge version of “old stock Belden 1309A” (USD 1.40 per meter). The parenthesis is because I think it is fake - the current 1309A does not look like this at all. Fully cognizant of this, I had previously bought the thicker one (USD 1.70 per meter; there's even a bi-wire one that I thought about), and it surprised me by its performance (I also like its softness). I mentioned to ELO that we should do a counterfeit cable article together as I suspect his beloved “Studer” is one too. I almost forgot, I also got a TDA-1305 DAC (USD 28) and despite its quirks it has supplanted my Meridian Explorer.

THAT was the simple part. Trouble arrived in the form of the BRZ HiFi FU-50 amp. There are 2 versions: I deliberately chose the pentode 6J8P/6SJ7/6米8 version over the double triode 6N8P/6SN7 version. This military tube shot to fame after someone described its triode operation as operating and sounding like 300B, earning it the nickname of “little 300B”. Readers with long memories may remember a vintage Manley (when it was still David) PP amp using this tube. I spotted that at Sound Glory in HK in the 90’s but the owner was reluctant to power it on (as he was with OTL amps too, so much for inspiring confidence). Hooked up to my efficient Sansui, it sounded incredibly snappy out of the box, but with the more inefficient LS3/5A clone its performance inevitably dropped a bit (true for most SET amps). I do think its DIY fame is fully deserved, and more.

At this point, I bought a bunch of tubes to upgrade all 3 of my amps as well as my preamp and that was a bit costly. I had from Day 1 deliberately shied away from expensive tube types (12AX7, 6922, 6SN7 etc, which I have aplenty in NYC and HK but not here) in my choice of amps and chose those tubes that are still fairly priced here, but it adds up, though I have to say tubes here in China can be reasonable if one chooses wisely.

Then came the 11 ohm version of the “Stirling”, which turns out to be at least as good as the 15 ohm version, and I reckon it is even closer to the sound of LS3/5A. I shall write another report on this before the approaching 12.12 (another TB Black Friday)(香港和华人朋友请留意，史特灵将于 12.10 日 20：00 展开特卖，请抓紧).

So Why Audio Hell? Well, aside from breaking in all the stuff, you can imagine the various comparisons I was forced to make. For the “Stirling”, 11 ohm vs 15 ohm - that was the easy part, as both are just superb and the differences are small. Worse, for the tubes I bought I had to test them out (there was 1 stud, for which I was immediately sent a replacement - good service!) and compare, in 3 amps. Tube Shootout has to be done occasionally, but it is not a gratifying thing doing all that A/B. And then comparing the cables too! Comparing the Canare with the "Belden" took quite a bit of time (I still favor the latter) Well, it’s been around 3 weeks and things have settled down a bit, and I have climbed out of that hole and resumed my regular music listening. This afternoon it’s Stravinsky (Bernstein/DG). It's nice to focus on the composer rather than a tube or cable!

Oh yes, How could I forget this! With 3 amps, I decided to get a Cheap Rack on cheap plastic wheels (USD 16). After assembly and re-installation, I was not pleased. Compared to my previous solid wood stool (see below), which can only support one amp, the sound is kind of dead (yes, it kinda "looks like" and surely sounds like the ultra-expensive and -underwhelming Finite Element, which over-damps and only benefits garbage ss amps). Likely resonance wreaking havoc. So, I bought USD 5 worth of Rubber Isolation Pads (likely used in cars etc) and that instantly restored liveliness. I shall change the wheels to sturdier ones soon too. All that took listening time! LR? What LR? I’ve been cooped up in my study day and night for 2 months! :-(

The Music In case you wonder what music I used for A/B, here they are. Hilary Hahn’s new album is notable for the Ginastera, not the Dvorak (DG). The recording is not top drawer, but I try to coax the gear to render the best. It is not easy in the Dvorak to open up the orchestral texture and retain Hahn’s tone (the rectifier tube also projects the soloist in different ways). Now, Hahn is rather plain in a way but her violin sound should have allure (I have heard her live), not easy to achieve. A far better recording is Hilde Frang’s superb Beethoven and Stravinsky (Warner); the latter should have plenty of vitality! And then both supple and subtle orchestral weight in Robert Trevino’s Ravel with the Basque National (Ondine). Lately, I have added an old favorite, the best recording of Rossini’s Overtures, bar none - Pierino Gamba/LSO, now seemingly only in a huge Decca box. As I emerged out of my self-induced coma, I still warm to the music, testament to the craft of the composers and performers!

There, a summary. Is that a lot of water under the bridge? Not that much really, but while it brought satisfaction it also brought ennui, and that has always been the audiophile's pact with the devil. Many of these items I shall report in detail later. Not a loser among them, even the Anubis after considering the price (it’s the Holiday Season, and we shall attempt to be kind)!

The Stool that made a mockery of Finite Element

Clone LS3/5A 史特灵

点击所有照片放大。

Letter from Shenzhen (22-15): 史特灵 LS3/5A, Part I

Canare 4S10F 喇叭线 和脚架

To Non-Chinese Readers: The Chinese products discussed here are not available outside China, so this is written for Hong Kong readers mainly. I let you know this to save you the bother of translating.

Update 更新：Part II 讨论史特灵 11 ohm 版本，必读。

我這博客十幾歲了，讀者來自世界各地，所以幾乎沒有用中文寫作。由於 Blogspot 系屬 Google，除非翻牆大陸看不到，可以說我和大陸發燒友沒有緣分。現在身處的深圳也不像廣州邊圍，絕對不是發燒重地，暫時沒有臭味相投的同好。曰：得之淡然, 失之坦然, 爭其必然, 順其自然。香港就不一樣，什麼都看得到，而大部分朋友和讀者都懂英文，所以沒有問題。看瀏覽統計（右下方），香港向居第二位，仅次花旗，讀者是不少的。這一次中文寫作可以說是絕無僅有。為什麼是例外？因為事關淘寶雙十一，而提及的寶貝暫時似乎沒有賣到國外去的。這篇文章是特地為香港讀者們寫的，雖然有點姍姍來遲，希望有人 get 到。 很久以來 我都很少買國產貨。可是暫時身在國內，近身的三妻四妾又未能跟隨，只能構思用少許錢另結新歡。另一原因是因為國貨（比如最重要的變壓器/牛）現在進步了很多。不像外國和香港那一些靠餘蔭吃飯的品牌（非音響的經典例子是掛羊頭賣狗肉的藍妹啤酒），賣得死貴還有屎忽佬上門，國內市場更加殘酷。君不見，非常多以前品牌已經式微或落幕？想多了解我最近歷程的朋友可以看這篇文章，比較詳細介紹我現在的音響。比起我在美國和香港，這裡低檔很多，但絕對聽得，照樣可以非常享受音樂。對我來說玩音響是提升聽音樂的樂趣，而不是音響是樂趣而音樂是工具 - 精神享受和提升，而不是流於玩物。當然，玩物和精神層面是互不排除的，但切勿本末倒置。 淘寶雙十一不是每樣東西都會便宜，有的把價錢提高再減，但是如果你有經常留意的話確實可以省一點錢。像跨店200減30這種活動只有部分商家參與。第一輪的活動已經過去了；第二輪在11/10 晚上八點展開，11/11 半夜結束。這裡我推薦3樣東西。 第一個討論的是所謂復刻LS3/5A。這些在香港台灣也聽過不少，包括英國所謂嫡系的 Stirling 和 Falcon。說後兩者，聲音雖然頗有以前影子，卻不免現代化，高音多些，低音較快而節奏感也會緊湊一些；中音為主者可能會有保留，而古墓派就不用提了。大陸有不少復刻者，效果參差，有的能入木兩分，其餘頗有偏差。價錢如所謂復刻西電一樣，比較便宜到揾笨價都有。 這裡說說 LS3/5A，那些自命不凡的 3/5A 專家，很多其實品味非常狹窄，一日三餐蔡琴。算吧啦！這些人，換膽多過吃飯，開機就像有人按門鈴，“是誰...是誰...”。音樂修養差些不是問題，但沒能力駕馭大些的系統卻是。這些人搞的 Tannoy, Spendor BC1 之類大多慘不忍聽，只能玩3/5A。我不屬於這類認為 3/5A 是全世界最好的喇叭的人，但我認為它是一對經典的小喇叭，如友人 icefox 的口頭禪，“夠聽”和“正經”。如果你像我，聽大編制交響樂，那它在香港寸金尺土的小廳房是勉強可以的（這裡和這裡有我以前在香港斗廳和其它喇叭的比較）。一般人說 3/5A最適合聽小品，但其實也不盡然。經典LS3/5A的速度，無論 11 或 15 ohm, 尤其低音，都有點慢，聽蔡琴沒問題，但聽打擊樂器佔重要位置的音樂，就算是小編制爵士3重奏也絕對不完美，總感覺欠了點什麼。編制其實在音樂里佔非常重要的位置。華人發燒友愛聽人聲和小提琴，這本來不是問題，但完全忽略伴奏和合奏就是大問題。我最怕發燒友播貝多芬小提琴協奏曲，因為主人只聽“一支弓”，完全不知道那樂隊聲音有多差，而我們要忍受很久獨奏才出場。另外最怕 Brubeck 的 Take Five。這3人組喜歡玩弄拍子，但其實並不怎樣 Swing。播放必需明快, 但在香港鮮有聽到合格的，通常令人昏昏欲睡。有人問大神 Charles Mingus 到底 Brubeck 是不是 Swing? 他的答案可妙：他自己認為是的話，那就是。這句名言可以展升到音響那些認為自己天下無敵的人的身上。 自己聽 LS3/5A 已經有40多年，順年份回溯，賣掉的有古早11 ohm 單柱 Rogers, Spendor，Harbeth 兩對; 11 ohm bi-wire 有 KEF，Spendor 兩對；古早 15 ohm Rogers 兩對。現在仍然擁有 15 ohm Chartwell 和 Audiomaster（在美國）。沒有“是誰...”來“是誰...”去，但大體聽感的比較當然是有的。差別說大不大，說小不小，有的朦，有的豬油羔般慢，也有的過分高清，絕對不是所有都有留下的價值，故也有沽出。最後期的 KEF Rosewood 版，有一點高清但我喜歡它較爽的聲底，和現在英國那些復刻有點相似。這裡順便一提變種 Harbeth P3ESR，這版本比以前的 P3 好很多，值得一聽 (這裡有和 3/5A 的比較)。至於 Spendor 那些 S3/5 類，聲音對我來說都太纖瘦，不是我杯茶（我還是 Spendor 粉絲呢）。 寫這些是讓讀者知道我對 LS3/5A 有一定的了解，也不會被變種或複刻輕易動搖的。那為什麼我在深圳還是買了復刻版？很簡單，我需要一對便宜的喇叭，而大陸喇叭很多聲音都不平衡（其實外國也是），我也沒有興趣到處去試聽。除了天經地義的謀利，3/5A復刻者起碼有個初心，知道自己的方向（做不做得到是另一回事）。就算次的研發都需要非常多時間和耐心，不是每個人可以或想做的。

https://m.tb.cn/h.UTgJAm6?tk=g3pedYo22wY

本著雖不中亦不遠矣的希望，幾個月前我購買了聯盟音響的 Anubis LS3/5A（前文有提及；是現代化 8ohm）。效果還可以，但起初有一點化不開的感覺。本來也安分的，但靠近雙十一發現了這所謂 Stirling 的產品，立馬被吸引了。應該是新推的，以前沒有見過。這也是第一遭國人復刻一個英國復刻版！有趣！史特灵是国内注册商标，但單元標著 Beydas Audio。把心一橫，拍了下來。 2380 人仔，比 Anubis 貴 400。寫這文章做了點研究，廣州貝達思有出CD機及喇叭等，還說自己有英國傳承。那一段公司歷史簡直精彩過神話，這裡不引述，自己查看把。 包裝超妥當。國內買喇叭有土炮喇叭線送。用廉價數碼機 Aiyima 接好，一開聲我就跳了起來。 Bingo，掂呀！如賈平凹小說（通常超鹹濕，東方日報可以行埋一邊）下刪3000字。一個星期了，還在聽。沒有任何抱怨。沒有舊款有時候的拖泥帶水，沒有新的可能過分高清，一切自然。你可以當它是靠近 KEF 和現在英國復刻那些品牌的變種，但高音可能更滑一些。換線就可迎合自己口味，非常敏感。音場深遠，高低平衡，能量感好，彈跳力佳，現場感強，无论人声，爵士古典，沒有什麼可挑剔的。是真木皮，沒有 Anubis 好，但合格。重要的是，聲音徹底 PK 了 Anubis。重複友人 icefox 的口頭禪，“夠聽”和“正經”，是至高榮譽。這喇叭不難推，就算 300B 都非常靠譜，膽石皆怡。我知道，有人會問，有冇嗰祲馟先？答案1，冇乜，起碼在我這裡如此，因為我不要一祲馟；答案2，那些說3/5A和號角有音染的人認知有限，現在非常多的高端喇叭才有音染，中音不好就是一種負面的負音染！別忘了，3/5A 是科班出生，用來監聽的。中音大氣但天生沒有什麼馟，那是玩家賦予的。玩得不好，35 也可以變 67；玩得好，其它有質素的小喇叭，如經典Sonus faber 和 Ensemble Reference,一樣可以祲祲馟。曰：人追求音色，但音色跟人, 看你是什麼人。我說千萬不要像狗一樣，重复無止地追自己尾巴。後者大有人在，但有什麼關係呢？自己開心就好。說到狗，有一個朋友一開機他那條就哀鳴著撤退，真人真事。所以再靚聲也要顧及家人感受。 現在只有兩個選擇。 15 ohm是所謂黑檀木，有淺色斑馬紋的（見圖），也就是我的。 11ohm是所謂白樺。這個有趣，我相信單元都一樣的，只不過分音器應該不同。我覺得沒有必要執著，你喜歡哪一個顏色就買。這是bi-wire設計，而jumper是一條不起眼的小銅柱，但別小看它，放到 Anubis 身上 PK 了它本身帶的鍍銀線。

https://m.tb.cn/h.U5pssnU?tk=HdeDdYofYAa

第二說的是腳架。同時我買了這便宜全鐵腳架（千萬不要買MDF面板的）。 ”Stirling” 一放上去就牛逼。這腳架需要自己組裝，沒多少時間。我家木地板，所以我把較尖的腳釘向上，而圓的旋鈕在下面，不會刮地板。聲音超好，如果你需要腳架，選擇適合你的高度（那些說 24 寸最好的老屎忽都是矮仔）。在客廳，我把 Anubis 放上去，聲音像通了電，改善令人咋舌（但還是不及 Stirling）。通常香港人喜歡焊死的 Foundation，是勉強可以的，但土炮就非常難聽，重之餘還大而不當。我喜歡輕盈點的，這產品是我杯茶，就是頂版大了一些。打磨靠譜，我覺得比 Foundation 好看好聲，見仁見智吧。另外，見圖，我把兩個喇叭跟來的貼膠貼在腳架前面邊上2點，後面沒有貼，這樣有些3點避震的作用。聲音一流。

https://m.tb.cn/h.UTgpubt?tk=laBbdYoYe4I 第三說的是喇叭線。如果需要 bi-wire， 4 蕊我推薦 Canare 的 4S10F。 20 人仔 一米，聲音像我緣用但现在沒有的 Belden 9497，一級棒！ PK 了我家其它喇叭線，包括那些跟喇叭來的。香港有代理，雅歌也有一些，但未必有這平價系列。其它成员应该一样好的。 所費無幾，加上你自己的音源，就可享受；你不會停下來的，晚晚通頂也不為奇。我寫得慢是因為不停地翻舊歌來聽。如果你想，但是沒有擁有過 LS3/5A, 怕買二手中招而覺得英國新的複刻太貴，這是你的機會。用十分一的價錢可以模擬到 LS3/5A 的魅力，還用想嗎？不要忘記，要用腳架。但我更想說的是，就算你是老用家（像我）你可能也會有驚喜！我是折服了的。不單如此，這 Stirling 還刺激起我要把 Anubis 搞得更好的意欲（我會打開它，看有什麼可以摩的）。 像這裡3圓店的口號，這個價錢買不了上當。行動要及時，但錯過也可能沒有問題，淘寶時常有活動，總有下一次，但可能價錢會有小調整。有個小顧慮，廣州很多地方都封了，不幸的話發貨會慢，但 Stirling 商家 HiFi Music 是 Beydas 官方代理，可靠的。如果你被我煽動而買了，麻煩你回來留言，說說你的感覺，好壞都歡迎。但千萬不要問我關於操作淘寶的問題，沒有時間回复，寫這文章已花了我幾天，不懂的話向身邊朋友求救。

我是 35 仔群里的 25 仔，也时常是胆机和黑胶羊群里的狼。虽然脚踏多船，却越简单越好，也从不人云亦云。这是乱世，连音响都充斥着假新闻，靠自己的耳朵最可靠。共勉之。

附录：

1）想知道联盟音响的 Anubis 有多离谱，看这里。

2）我最近买的东西记录在这里，有的 12.12 可能会少许折扣。 

Brief Review: Belden 1694A and Canare L-5CFB 75 ohm cables

 pic: Belden 1694A

Letter from NYC (34) 2014 (6): Belden, Canare
Brief Review: Belden 1694A and Canare L-5CFB 75 ohm cables
Brief Review: Belkin PureAV Coaxial Digital Cable, Part II
Review: Ensemble Dirondo and Dichrono HiDac, Part IV

Revised Dec 26, 2014 (Part C added, see last part of article)
Revised June 18, 2014 (Part B added, see second half of article)

Part A
This article continues my saga of testing out digital cables for my Ensemble  (last installment here).

After the surprisingly good result I got from my Belkin coaxial I was eager to test out 2 cables I had bought a long time ago. Opting for BNC connection, I finally got some BNC connectors and assembled them. But not without encountering some headaches.

Caution on BNC connectors: there are so many types. Aside from the rarer solder-on and screw-on types, most are crimp-on types of various diameter and construction, designed to fit various RG type cables. The Belden and Canare under discussion are both RG-6 types. I made the error of buying RG-59 connectors (Parts Express), and they prove not a good fit and I had to improvise the assembly. So, make sure you get the right RG type connector.


pic: Canare L-5CFB

Canare L-5CFB (official pdf)
Belden 1694A (official pdf)

Both are stiff RG-6 types, and the diameter is a little too big for the cable to thread through the RG59 connectors that I got.

The Belden 1694A has a long history and is a well proven favorite of professionals and DIYers alike. I got it in the USA, where it typically retails for less than $1/ft. After some hard work I finally improvised the assembly with my misfit RG-59 connectors.

The Canare L-5CFB is perhaps somewhat lesser known, but I have always had good sound from this company's offerings (see the 2T2S interconnect). I actually got this in HK, from the great people at 雅歌工程有限公司(深水埗欽州街66号).I happened to have a pair of screw-on connectors so fitting was easy, but if you buy anew, I'd advise you to use Canare's own connectors.

So both cables were assembled without solder.

Sonic Characteristics (Belden vs Canare vs Belkin)

• Even not run-in, I was shocked by the Belden 1694A's superb transparency, easily a notch or two above the Canare L-5CFB and the Belkin PureAV (coaxial). This is easily the best link the Ensemble setup has enjoyed.

• The Belden 1694A's transparency comes at no cost that I can detect. It is superbly musical, with utterly natural treble, a huge soundstage, excellent dynamics and rhythm.

• Although lacking the last degree of transparency, the Canare L-5CFB is very musical and natural sounding, possibly an even better match with a DAC that is on the bright side. I also wonder if my screw-on connector is of lesser quality (nickel type, not as polished) or if it requires more run-in. I have left it connected and will be watchful.

• In many ways the Belkin coaxial is still excellent and resemble the Canare L-5CFB, but now I can confirm my previous minor reservations (..."Belkin's treble lacks just the ultimate in extension and air; the mid-bass is just a tad too full on certain material and the midrange is slightly recessed...").

• If forced to compare, the Belden 1694A comes out on top; the Canare L-5CFB second, and the Belkin PureAV a very closed third. But the Belkin can save you the hassle of DIY. In conclusion, all three are incredible bargains.

Part B
After the article was posted, I was delighted to have heard from an old friend, gbronn/GaryB, who contributed the very useful info below:

There are several sources for pre-made cables using Belden 1694a or Canare L-5CFB so people can avoid having to add their own connectors.  One place that is very popular is Blue Jeans Cable.

I've bought 1694a from them and it's reasonably good but only if you are using BNC connectors on both ends.  When I mixed BNC on one end and RCA on the other I thought it was pretty bad.  I've heard others report that mixed BNC and RCA is always bad and that if you can't do BNC on both ends then RCA on both ends is better than mixed.  But I haven't tried this myself.

Markertek also sells premade cables using Belden 1694a, Canare L-5CF and others that I like. Search for BNC to BNC video cables.  Here a direct links for Belden 1694a and Canare L-5CF cables

My favorite cable these days is RG179, which is a very thin 75ohm coax.  Markertek sells a premade version with high quality Trompeter BNC connectors.

It's worth playing with the length of digital cables as well.  Try a 15ft or 25ft cable.  You'll be surprised to find that long cables often sound better.  The thin RG179 is good for this since it's easier to coil up and hide, unlike bulkier cables.

Part C
Recently, during a visit to my friend WSS (here) I got the feeling something is not optimal with his digital setup. Later, I made a Belden 1694A cable for him and also lent him my trusted Kimber D-60. He invited a bunch of friends to the shootout (I was not present) and all declared Belden the winner over even the mighty Kimber, not to mention the resident AN UK digital cable.

Editor's Note: 2012 in Retrospective, Best Buy of the Year

Nothing beats Western Electric (pictured 133 on top and 124B). Click to enlarge.

Editor's Note: 2012 in Retrospective, Best Buy of the Year
Follow Up: Sony BDP-S190, Part II
Follow Up: Sony PlayStation 1, Part II

Revised Jan 6, 2013

Once again, I have failed to write the yearly retrospective before the year's end, but this time I have more excuse than before! The year 2012 had been quite a mad year for me, and personal matters took the helm. This necessarily means fewer things to write about, but it shall not be for naught I assure you. As I look back, my 2012 in audio was idiosyncratic (I like that), and MOST meaningful for rediscovery of "old friends" (I like that even more).

Most Notable Events

• Western Electric Without a doubt, the biggest event of the year was: Nothing New Under the Sun. Western Electric (posted here) 133A and 124 amplifiers worked their magic, and reminded me in no uncertain terms that WE remains supreme in audio achievement, bar none. People have asked me repeatedly why I had put aside my 133A for so long; I can only say: so as to explore other things, worthwhile or not....

• Mono Analog Replay Mono Analog Replay (treated in at least 3 articles here), which some have advocated for years, is definitely not anachronistic, not a step back. It is simply something that makes one re-evaluate what one is listening to. One asks again, perhaps Less is More?

Best Sound of 2012
I am not going to be humble here. The best sound I have heard in 2012 was from my very own Western Electric gears.

Most Important Acquisitions

• TAD TSM-2201 (reported here). This paradoxically at once boldly-styled and low-keyed design was a match made in heaven with Kondo M7 + Ongaku (result here). You are certain to hear more about this.My loudspeaker purchase of the year.

• KEF LS50 The co-axial design is superbly coherent. You shall too hear more about this (preliminary findings here).

• Denon DL-102 Mono Cartridge (reported here). Mono is all the rage. This studio/transcription perennial deserves its fame.This very heavy cartridge needs a robust arm to do it justice.

• Thomas Schick Tonearm is a 12" bargain compared with others more expensive (tested here). One day I'd love to install the Denon DL-102 on the Schick.

• Sony SCD-XA5400ES SACD player for once convinces (reported here).

Best Buy of the Year

• Thorens TD-309A turntable (here) This humble turntable delivers more than one expects. The tonearm performs way beyond expectation, and is a great match with the heavy Denon DL-102 mono cartridge. In terms of one-stop solution, this TT now displaces even formidable rivals like Clearaudio Concept (a previous Best-Buy). I'd love to try out Koetsu and stuff on this arm, but time is in short supply.

• CineMag CMQEE-3440A made famous by Bob's Devices (here). Whether you DIY or buy from BD you are certain to be happy.

• Denon DL-301 Mk II MC cartridge is a dark horse but its superb musicality is instantly captivating (reported here).

• Canare L-2T2S (here) is superbly musical for a ridiculously low price.

• Sony BDP-S190 Blue Ray Player (here) is superb. Follow Up: Since that initial evaluation, I have confirmed the transport section of this entry level Sony Blue-Ray player is as good as any previous DVD models, every bit the equal of the underground classic DVP-PR50P (a previous Best-Buy) (in fact they are indistinguishable). The analog out sound too is very clean, audibly cleaner than the DV-PR-50P but perhaps just a little less warm and emotive. I suspect any Sony BD as well as DVD player shall deliver excellent sound. Best-Buy in digital for sure.

Vintage Rediscoveries

• Yamaha NS-10M (posted here) shows the best of yesterday is fully competitive today.

• NAD 3020 (here) proves it is immortal. 

• Technics SL-1200 Mk II (here) surprises yet again.

• Sony PlayStation 1 (here) shames most current digital products. Follow Up: In one go I performed two of the modifications outlined in the dogbreath page: removing the muting transistors as well as the output blocking caps from the signal path. I am sorry to report that while more details could be had the sound lost some of its musicality - its raison d'etre and its magic. I suspect I prefer the sound with output caps, though it may take some trial and error to reach an improvement. You shall hear more about this PS1!

Suggestion for a US $1k system that will shame your friend's $10k system
This requires you to source used goods, from the likes of Ebay, but you shall be rewarded amply. Not cheaptubeaudio, but cheap audio for sure:

• Yamaha NS-10M
• NAD 3020 (not the i version, please read my link)
• Sony DVD player (as the Blue Ray is more expensive, I am sure the current entry-level DVD players are likely sonically as good as their over-achieving predecessors. I see the DVP-SR210P, successor to the 200P, sells for $30! :-) Even I may buy another one to try!)
• Technics SL-1200 Mk II. Since the NAD only has an MM section, if you use the Denon DL-301 Mk II cartridge, you will need to add a step-up transformer (suggest the cheap Denon AU-300LC or the older AU-250 (here) and that will increase the budget a little. If you stay with MM cartridge, I suggest the cheap and cheerful Shure 97xE (<$80).
• NAD 4020A (here), the original matching tuner for the NAD 3020, if you need a tuner.

Review: Canare L-2T2S and Sommer tricone MkII

Talk Cable: DIY Cables, a Must for any Audiophile

Review: Canare L-2T2S and Sommer tricone MkII interconnect cables

For the longest time, my reference interconnect cables have been the various Gotham cables, and that is unlikely to change at all. However, from time to time, I do try out a few other makes. Before I go into my recent forays, let me say why I think DIY cables is a necessity.

Why DIY Cables? Simple, "Audiophile" cables from audio manufacturers are mostly scams. The most balanced cables I have heard have all been no-frills professional cables. Unfortunately, most are sold as bare cables and termination is required.

Design your own cable? No. Some people assemble their own cables from core conductors and add shielding etc. In my experience, most of these sound unbalanced. There is much to choose from professional cables that self-assembly is a waste of time.

So when I say DIY, it is limited to termination. 十個名牌音響線九個不平衡；十個自作音響線九個不能聼。

RCA connectors I use cheap connectors. My own inclinations on RCA connectors: the connector must be rust-proof, light and made of THIN metal (such as the imitation "Canare" sold in HK). Many expensive boutique connectors, such as WBT, use chunky metal, but they look more impressive more than they sound good. Think about it, why would you want to use an expensive cable composed of many fine strands of conductors, then attach a huge metal chunk at the end to connect to a tiny female RCA connector (usually cheap even on expensive gears, and made from thin metal) on the machine?

Solder The solder must flow easily and quickly. Use sparingly, just enough to do the job and no more. I use standard stuff (I still have the older tinned ones, which I prefer). There are people out there who swear by difficult-to-manage silver and other expensive solder formulas, but I'd urge you not to get anal about it. The whole thing about solder that is like no solder (that is totally transparent) is nonsense. If you believe that, you might as well use solder-less screw-on connectors (but not WBT; use cheap ones, like the very light aluminum ones, the "brand" of which I forgot, available in HK).  

Which cable model? Most professional cable companies make a large number of models. Picking and choosing can be rather bewildering. My philosophy, if you can term it that, is to try out the cheapest model. With the reputable manufacturers, they never disappoint. You can then move up the price point if you wish, but I find the more expensive does not at all equate the better. More conductors, more complex configurations/geometries, more shielding etc may bring about better RF rejection or measurements, but sonically there is no guarantee.

A Note of Caution There are plenty of so-called cable experts out there, who terminate for you for a substantial fee. They claim perfect soldering etc. Some of these people may have the skills, but they also inflate their own significance. You can also develop them on your own to save yourself a lot of money. and have some fun on the way. 除了專業音響工程店外，十個所謂HiFi音響線專賣店十個黑；其它十個賣HiFi線的九個騙。

Illustrated Guide to DIY Cables This profusely illustrated site for how to terminate a cable is simply great. I just discovered it and am happy the author and I have much in common when it comes to cables.

And now brief reviews of two cables.

Canare L-2T2S (official info)

I have always liked Japanese Canare cables. The cables are soft to touch (a good sign) and sound musical. This is unlike Japanese Mogami, which tends to be much leaner. Japanese Softone/ICL equipment comes with cheap Canare cables that sound surprisingly good. This L-2T2S model is very cheap (HK $ 16/m), and available by the foot or in bulk (like here).

This cable has a fully fleshed out midrange and finely balanced sound. It has neither the ultimate attributes nor serious deficiencies. It matches perfectly my Thorens TD-309 turntable. A great starter cable. When I have time, I may compare it to Gotham GAC-2. People who find Mogami too lean can try this out. Who says there is only one "Japanese sound"?!

Sommer tricone MkII (official info)

I have never heard Gotham (old stock or current products) I don't like, but that is not the case for German Sommer. I have heard Sommer cables several times and in general they seem to be lacking somewhat in rhythm and pace. A friend even lent me the very expensive (around US $200) Epilogue. It is not a bad cable, revealing and balanced, but one expects a little more musicality, particularly at the price. The cheapest of the line, the tricone MkII, is no exception, but for the ridiculously low price (HK $12/m) its performance is very good indeed and there is much less to complain about. Overall, I still prefer the Canare L-2T2S.

FYI, I also got a bit of much more expensive Galileo 238 plus (HK $38/m) to try, and shall report later. I am not the only one who suspects the cheaper Sommer models sound better than the more expensive ones.

Incidentally, I noticed that the word "highflex" on my tricone is in italics, whereas that on the website picture is not. I called 雅歌 and was informed that Sommer sometimes changes things without notice.

Where to get Canare and Sommer in HK

Most HK audiophiles get their Sommer and Canare from Apliu street, particularly 雅歌. The staff is very friendly, honest and helpful. They won't recommend anything unless you want them to; no hard sell here. Here are their details:


Acoustic Engineering Co Ltd 雅歌工程有限公司
G/F., 66 Yen Chow St., Sham Shui Po
Telephone: 2729 1022
Fax: 2725 6787
E-mail: acoustic01@biznetvigator.com

However, 雅歌 is only the retailer who gets their supplies from the distributor. For Sommer at least, 雅歌 gets their supply from Palonn 柏龍, who is listed in Sommer's official website as a Hong Kong distributor, although the same website also lists another two dealers for China, and both have HK addresses (one even has a "sommer hk" website). So, it is a little complicated. But unless you plan to buy a roll, Apliu Street and 雅歌 is still your best choice.